Eastern Turkey: Kars, Ani and the far east, how we operate it

The programme takes the Istanbul – Kars leg by air, about two hours to Kars airport (KSY), a few kilometres from the city. It is the only way seven days can cover both the east and Istanbul. From Kars everything is done by road in a private vehicle: Ani is about 45 km away, around 45 minutes; Lake Çıldır about 75 km, a little over an hour; Sarıkamış about 55 km, one hour. In winter snow can affect the roads and the airport operations, with delays or diversions; the programme keeps margin in the transfers, and it is best not to chain the return flight from Kars with an international connection on the same day.

The rail alternative exists and is famous, but it is worth knowing what it is: there is a regular Ankara – Kars train and a tourist version, the Turistik Doğu Ekspresi, with two-berth compartments and photo stops. The train leg is offered on request only and subject to seat availability: it must be asked for well in advance and cannot be considered confirmed until the ticket is issued. The article on domestic flights compares plane and train for this destination.

• Ani. The former medieval capital, today a vast site above the Arpaçay valley, right by the Armenian border: walls, cathedrals, churches and bridges, with the guide explaining its role on the old trade routes. It is walked without shade on uneven ground, with frequent wind on the plateau; closed shoes, a windbreaker and water are needed. It is day 4 of the circuit.
• Lake Çıldır. In winter it usually freezes and, whenever the ice thickness and safety conditions allow, the group goes out onto the ice and takes horse-drawn sled rides; those activities are not guaranteed, and when going out is not possible the day is reordered with visits in the area. In spring and summer the lake opens onto a wide steppe, with fishing boats and stops for tea and local produce.
• Sarıkamış. Pine forests and gentle slopes, snow-covered in winter, which made the ski resort known; it is seen panoramically and, depending on the season, with a short walk. It is combined with the return flight to Istanbul on the same day.
• Kars. Russian-era stone buildings, the fortress and straight streets that recall the city's imperial past; a free afternoon is enough for the centre and for the local food, famous for its cheeses and honey. Kars and its surroundings sit above 1,700 metres, a moderate altitude that does not usually affect healthy travellers.

The natural order over three nights in Kars is arrival and the city walk, Ani, Lake Çıldır and, on departure day, Sarıkamış. Van, Doğubayazıt and Mount Ararat are not part of the published programmes.

From December to March comes the winter that gives the region its reputation: Lake Çıldır freezes, Sarıkamış is covered in snow and Ani stands white on the plateau. In exchange, temperatures often drop below 0 °C, the wind chill is much lower and snow can affect roads and flights. Waterproof footwear, a thermal layer, gloves, a hat and a good coat are essential; with small children or people with reduced mobility it is best to say so in order to adapt the pace.

From June to August the steppe opens in green and yellow, the days are long and open-air visits are comfortable, with cool nights because of the altitude; dress in layers. Spring and autumn are transitional seasons, with thaw or first snows and less guarantee of landscape in either direction, which is why they are not among the recommended months. The operating calendar places the east within the country's tourist year.

The Black Sea has no programme of its own in the catalogue: it is operated as the closing stage of the 15-day grand journey, which reaches Trabzon from Adıyaman by road or by a combination of road and domestic flight, depending on the season and airline operations, and leaves Trabzon (TZX) by air to Istanbul. The visit brings together the Hagia Sophia of Trabzon, a viewpoint such as Boztepe and, if the season and the day's accessibility allow, a panoramic view towards the Sumela monastery area, whose access roads may be closed for works or weather.

It is the rainiest region in the country: in Trabzon rain should be expected in any month, and its green, humid landscapes contrast with the southeast the group has just left. Kars and Trabzon do not appear together in any published programme; any other combination of the east with the coast is studied at quotation, with the season as the first filter.

• The language of the explanations is confirmed at quotation, before booking.
• Domestic flights are issued in economy class; the baggage allowance is stated on the ticket. In winter, times may be adjusted because of snow and the day's programme adapts to the confirmed flight.
• The Eastern Express leg is offered on request only; the sleeper supplement, sled rides on the ice, winter activities and ski equipment hire are optional and not part of the programme.
• Activities on the ice of Lake Çıldır depend on the ice thickness and the safety of the day; they are not guaranteed.
• Ani is walked across a very extensive site, without shade and with wind; it lies right by the Armenian border.
• Kars sits above 1,700 metres: a moderate altitude, to be considered in case of cardiovascular or respiratory illness.
• Hotel zone: the centre of Kars, for the three nights; The actual hotels are proposed by name in the quotation and confirmed at booking.
• A valid passport, the visa or electronic authorisation and entry requirements are the traveller's responsibility and depend on nationality.